Color expert Holly Markert breaks it down to an even simpler explanation for us.
“I knew b3 was positively impacting my color business when my returning clients began asking for it with their next color service. As a colorist, I love that it’s super easy to use; the one step system doesn't delay processing time whether I'm producing a subtle multi-dimensional result or something more extreme with intense vivid shades. My mantra is always to "do no harm" when I color hair so I appreciate the technology in b3 that reinforces the inner structure of the hair when I have a client who requires a slightly more aggressive approach. Thank you so much for this awesome tool for my color arsenal!” – Holly Markert, Los Angeles, CA
As a general rule of thumb, all color formulas should be mixed in equal parts using 60mL (2 ounces) color to 60 mL (2 ounces) developer for a total of 120 mL (4 ounces). However, you asked for more detailed information, and we listened.
When your color line requires a different color-to-developer mixing ratio:
If your color line requires a different color to developer mixing ratio, such as 1:2, mix your color according to your manufacturers instructions and add b3 according to the following, existing measurements.
For Demi/Perm Color Services:
Usage of b3 in Demi/Permanent color services should be done using a measurement of 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) for every 60 mL (2 ounces) of color to 60 mL (2 ounces) of developer/activator ratio to ensure proper deposit of pigment. This concept also applies to root retouches, all over base colors, toners, and color glazes.
Semi’s that do NOT require developer:
When using Semi-permanent colors that do not require developer, mix 60 ml (2 ounces) of color to 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) of b3. This includes vivids, cellophanes, etc., and also applies to root retouches, all over base colors, toners, and color glazes.
High Lift Colors/Lighteners/Bleach on Scalp:
When using high lift colors and lighteners (bleach) on the scalp you want to use 7 ml (1/4 ounce) of b3 mixed into your formulation in order to minimize sensitivity, irritation on burning caused by the strength of the chemicals or due to client sensitivity. This also helps produce a better quality lightening result with a more even lift from root to tip.
Highlift/Bleach in Foils:
When using high lifts or bleaches in foils (as a heat conductor) or under a heat source, for services such as ombré, sombre, or highlights, you’ll want to use 7 ml (1/4 ounce) of b3 mixed into your formulation for added protection to 30 ml (1 ounce scoop of bleach powder) to 60 ml (2 ounces) of developer.
High lift/Bleach Open Air Process:
When using bleaches (or high lifts) that process in the open air without a heat conductor/heat source, for services such as Balayage, use 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) of b3 to 30 ml (1 ounce scoop of bleach powder) to 60 ml (2 ounces) of developer. Or, mix your high lift formula according to you manufacturers instructions, then add 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) to your formula and mix well.
If you are looking to give your clients the benefits of b3 from their mid-shaft to ends of their hair, without depositing additional pigments, you can add 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) of b3 to a semi or demi permanent clear formula and apply as usual. This will give them the benefits of repairing the bonds of their hair while also giving it an intense shiny, healthy result without color.