Color expert Holly Markert breaks it down to an even
simpler explanation for us.
“I knew b3 was positively impacting my color
business when my returning clients began asking for it with their next color
service. As a colorist, I love that it’s super easy to use; the one step system
doesn't delay processing time whether I'm producing a subtle multi-dimensional
result or something more extreme with intense vivid shades. My mantra is always to "do no harm"
when I color hair so I appreciate the technology in b3 that reinforces the inner
structure of the hair when I have a client who requires a slightly more
aggressive approach. Thank you so much for this awesome tool for my color
arsenal!” – Holly Markert, Los Angeles,
CA
As a general rule of thumb, all color formulas should
be mixed in equal parts using 60mL (2 ounces) color to 60 mL (2 ounces) developer
for a total of 120 mL (4 ounces). However, you asked for more detailed information, and we listened.
When
your color line requires a different color-to-developer mixing ratio:
If your color line requires a different color to
developer mixing ratio, such as 1:2, mix your color according to your manufacturers
instructions and add b3 according to the following, existing measurements.
For
Demi/Perm Color Services:
Usage of b3 in Demi/Permanent color services
should be done using a measurement of 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) for every 60 mL (2
ounces) of color to 60 mL (2 ounces) of developer/activator ratio to ensure
proper deposit of pigment. This concept also applies to root retouches, all
over base colors, toners, and color glazes.
Semi’s
that do NOT require developer:
When using Semi-permanent colors that do not require
developer, mix 60 ml (2 ounces) of color to 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) of b3. This
includes vivids, cellophanes, etc., and also applies to root retouches, all
over base colors, toners, and color glazes.
High
Lift Colors/Lighteners/Bleach on Scalp:
When using high lift colors and lighteners
(bleach) on the scalp you want to use 7 ml (1/4 ounce) of b3 mixed into your
formulation in order to minimize sensitivity, irritation on burning caused by the
strength of the chemicals or due to client sensitivity. This also helps produce a better quality
lightening result with a more even lift from root to tip.
Highlift/Bleach
in Foils:
When using high lifts or bleaches in foils (as a heat
conductor) or under a heat source, for services such as ombré, sombre, or
highlights, you’ll want to use 7 ml (1/4 ounce) of b3 mixed into your formulation
for added protection to 30 ml (1 ounce scoop of bleach powder) to 60 ml (2
ounces) of developer.
High lift/Bleach
Open Air Process:
When using bleaches (or high lifts) that process
in the open air without a heat conductor/heat source, for services such as
Balayage, use 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) of b3 to 30 ml (1 ounce scoop of bleach powder)
to 60 ml (2 ounces) of developer. Or,
mix your high lift formula according to you manufacturers instructions, then
add 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) to your formula and mix well.
Clear
Glosses/Glazes:
If you are looking to give your clients the
benefits of b3 from their mid-shaft to ends of their hair, without depositing
additional pigments, you can add 3.5 ml (1/8 ounce) of b3 to a semi or demi
permanent clear formula and apply as usual.
This will give them the benefits of repairing the bonds of their hair
while also giving it an intense shiny, healthy result without color.
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